Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve: Camels Hump (2)

General Information

Distance:  13 kilometers
Total climb:  649 meters
Time taken:  2 hours 55 minutes
Map:  Tidbinbilla 8627-2S, 1:25 000
Guide:  link
Start point distance by road from Canberra GPO:  49 kilometers
Start point map grid reference:  55H FA 71471 74624
Destination map grid reference:  55H FA 72016 79083
End point:  same as start

I previously completed the walk to Camels Hump on 2 May 2015, although that first time I also walked to Pierce Trig, further along the Tidbinbilla Range. Refer to the blog for this May 2015 walk.

Deua National Park: Wyanbene Trig and Minuma Range

General information

Distance: 6.6 kilometers
Total climb: 407 meters
Time taken: 3 hours 15 minutes
Map:  Krawaree 8826-3N 1:25 000
Guide:  link
Start point distance by road from Canberra GPO:  139 kilometers via Braidwood
Start point map grid reference:  55H GA 42461 35502
Destination map grid reference:  55H GA 44985 36575 [not reached]
End Point:  same as start

Route

http://maps.six.nsw.gov.au/

Description

The starting point for this hike was the Wyanbene Caves camping ground. To get there we drove to Captains Flat and from there followed Braidwood/Captains Flat Road to Cooma Road. We turned south on Cooma Road and travelled just over 20 kilometers to Wyanbene Road on the left. We then followed Wyanbene Road for 8 kilometers until it ends at the camping ground. We started hiking at 10:15am. First we followed the short walking trail up to Wyanbene Caves, which is gated but not locked. We chose not to go down into the cave, however, and continued our hike. At first we climbed upwards in a northwesterly direction to make our initial ascent less steep, but after a while we decided to go straight up Wyanbene Caves Mountain. This proved to be a very steep climb through fairly open forest with a rocky and leaf-strewn floor.



We eventually reached the ridge northwest of Wyanbene trig - the first 900 meters of the hike having gained us about 220 meters in elevation - and from there walked up to the trig itself.



Not much in terms of views from the trig due to the dense tree cover, but there were glimpses of what was to come. From the trig we headed due east down a ridge until we met the northern end of Minuma Ridge Fire Trail, and from there climbed up the ridge to the north northeast and then to a large rocky outcrop from where we continued to follow the narrow ridge of the Minuma Range to the northeast. The ridge affords some great views out to the southwest and northeast.





We also found the abandoned mine at the top of the ridge that was mentioned in John Evans' 2009 blog (see above) that we used as a guide for this hike. Evans' blog said that the walk along the ridge was "...through dry, open forest", but clearly things have changed in the last seven years. We found the ridge choked with undergrowth that we had to force our way through and this was both tiring and time-consuming. Some further views provided some compensation though.



After almost an hour-and-a-half of struggling 2 kilometers through the undergrowth we reached the peak on the ridge marked on the map at 1024 meters elevation. We paused for some lunch there and discussed our options. Initially we had intended to walk further along the ridge to a high point overlooking the valley, but we couldn't face another hour or more of bashing through the undergrowth. Instead we looked for a nearby route back down the northwestern side of the range, and found a suitable ridge not much further on. When we arrived at the ridge we discovered a track which took us straight down it. The track seemed like it is no longer used, and is starting to become overgrown in some parts with the same undergrowth we found at the top of the range. It is mostly easy to follow by looking for what we assumed to be erosion prevention mounds along the track. When we were getting close to 800 meters elevation we left the track (which continued to the northwest) and headed southwards back towards the camping ground through open forest and ferns. A passing brown snake made us more cautious as we went. We returned to Canberra via Braidwood so we could stop at the very friendly Royal Mail Hotel for a beer or two.

This was a difficult walk through what was for us an unknown area. Normally I would consider a walk of 6.6 kilometers to be a short stroll, but we came out of it tired and footsore. This is not a walk for everybody, but the views were spectacular, particularly to the east and southeast.

Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve: Nil Desperandum to Tidbinbilla Visitors Centre

General Information

Distance:  13 kilometers
Total climb:  500 meters
Time taken:  4 hours
Map:  Tidbinbilla 8627-2S 1:25 000
Guide:  link
Start point distance by road from Canberra GPO:  50 kilometers
Start point map grid reference:  55H FA 74483 78216
Destination map grid reference:  55H FA 76327 76389
End point:  same as start

Route

http://maps.six.nsw.gov.au/

Description

While staying at Nil Desperandum homestead for a weekend, we decided to do a walk to the Tidbinbilla Visitors Centre, primarily for a coffee since my camp espresso pot was not working to my liking. We followed the signs from the homestead along Boundary Trail, Nils Trail, Gilmores Road and River Road until we crossed the Tidbinbilla River at Greens carpark. From there we followed a walking track to the left until it came out on Tidbinbilla Reserve Road, which we followed to the Visitors Centre.

After a deeply satisfying strong black coffee, we retraced our steps to the point on Gilmores Road at map grid reference 55H FA 74363 76371 where we turned on to a link road that took us to Boundary Trail. We followed Boundary Trail up and down the very steep hill marked at elevation 865 meters on the map and back to Nil Desperandum.

It is really only practical to do the walk this way if you are staying at Nil Desperandum. Generally you would do the walk from the Visitors Centre or Greens carpark (see previous walk on 19 May 2016). The return journey that we did over the very steep hill isn't for the faint hearted, and it is much easier to keep to Gilmores Road.

Namadgi National Park: Rendezvous Creek Rock Art Shelter (1)

General Information

Distance:  15.5 kilometers
Total climb:  383 meters
Time taken:  4 hours 20 minutes
Map:  Rendezvous Creek 8626-1S; 1:25 000
Guide:  Graeme Barrow, Namadgi and Tidbinbilla Classics. Tough Bushwalks in Canberra's 
                                       High Country (Canberra, 2000), pp.54-58.
Start point distance by road from Canberra GPO:  66 kilometers
Start point map grid reference:  55H FA 80598 44229
Destination map grid reference:  55H FA 76252 46466 [approximate; rock art not found]
End point: same as start

Description

The starting point for this walk is the Rendezvous Creek carpark off Boboyan Road about 30 kilometers south of Tharwa. A well-marked walking track starts from the carpark and follows Rendezvous Creek for about 500 meters before an iron walking bridge allows hikers to cross the Creek without getting wet. The track then leads up to a lookout with a viewing bench and some information on dingos and wild dogs. Leaving the lookout, the walking track continues into the Rendezvous Creek valley, a wide, kangaroo-filled, grassy tract with high ridges on both sides.



Around 1.5 kilometers into the hike, the walking track meets a management trail that continues up the valley to the northwest. The trail is very distinct, but was waterlogged along much of its length following recent record-breaking rain.





It didn't take long for the boots and gaiters to get wet and muddy.



About 4.5 kilometers into the walk, we came across the remains of Rowleys Rendezvous Creek Hut, which was built in 1950. Many internet sources say that the hut was burnt down in the 2003 Canberra Bushfires. The Kosciuszko Huts Association, however, says that:

This hut was burnt down in 2003, by persons unknown. Circumstances indicate that it may have been done deliberately by pig shooters, however police investigations were inconclusive. Namadgi NP management have refused point-blank to allow KHA to rebuild the hut at our expense.
[https://khuts.org/index.php/the-huts/act-huts/29-rowleys-rendezvous-creek-hut]

There is very little left of the hut today - some bricks from the chimney and some burnt stubs of timber posts.



Having had morning tea at the site of Rowleys Hut, we continued along the trail in search of the rock art shelter nearby. Unfortunately the trail to the rock art site mentioned in Graeme Barrow's book no longer exists, or at least we could not find it. Based on the map in Barrow's book, however, we estimated a GPS location and made our way up into the trees.

As soon as we entered the tree line we were faced with thick and tangled scrub which limited visibility and made the search for the rock art all the more difficult. We spent about 40 minutes in this scrub investigating every rock formation we saw, but did not find the rock art. We bashed our way back to the management trail which we followed further to the northwest in the hope that the track to the rock art was further on. Again we investigated some promising rock formations without success, and eventually decided to head back to the car back through the valley.



Despite the disappointment of not locating the rock art, this was a particularly scenic hike with plenty to hold our interest. There is plenty of wildlife - we saw kangaroos, a lone falcon, and the odd rabbit, and found footprints of feral pigs and a dingo/wild dog in the mud. The track through the open valley is easy to follow and requires little climbing. Unfortunately it was very waterlogged at the time we did the hike, and it would probably be more comfortable in drier conditions. Still, there is some satisfaction in squelching through the water and mud.

Abrahams Bosom Reserve: Gosangs Tunnel and Mermaids Inlet

General Information

Distance:  5.7 kilometers return
Total climb:  negligible
Time taken:  1 hour 30 minutes
Map:  Currarong 9027-1N 1:25 000
Guide:  link
Start point distance by road from Canberra GPO:  218 kilometers
Start point map grid reference:  56H LG 01850 23575
Destination map grid reference:  56H LG 03431 23844
End point:  same as start

Route

http://maps.six.nsw.gov.au/

Description

This short hike is part of a longer walking track loop around Abrahams Bosom Reserve on the Beecroft Peninsula, which forms the northern head of Jervis Bay. Although I have done the full loop previously, time restrictions meant that on this occasion we could just go as far as Mermaids Inlet and back. The walk commenced from the carpark at Abraham's Bosom Beach at the end of Beecroft Parade, Currarong. From there it is a short walk to another carpark, and the track itself begins properly after crossing a bridge over Abrahams Bosom Creek. About 300 meters from the bridge we left the Abrahams Bosom Walking Track on a minor trail to the left and after a further 465 meters arrived at Whale Point, where the rusted remains of SS Merimbula can still be seen on the rocks. It ran aground there almost 90 years ago (27 March 1928), so there is little left of it today.



We continued along the side track until we rejoined the main track, which at this point is known as Coomies Walk.



There were large puddles of water over the track at a few points here, and it was necessary to step around them or just wade through. About 800 meters from where we rejoined Coomies Walk there was a sign pointing left to Gosangs Tunnel. We followed this indistinct trail and found the Tunnel not much further on. The entrance to Gosangs Tunnel is quite small, and may be difficult to see at first. Just follow the well-worn track.



Inside, the Tunnel narrows and headroom diminishes quickly. It is necessary to crouch hunched over or crawl on hands and knees to get through to the other side.



At the other side is a rock ledge above the ocean which gives amazing views of the sea cliffs and the open ocean.

  

Leaving back through the Tunnel, we backtracked to the sign that directed us to Gosangs and headed towards Mermaids Inlet. This was another rough track through some scrub and to the end of the Inlet, from where we could walk along a narrow track along the northern cliff above the inlet. This also had excellent views of the cliffs and ocean beyond.



From here we backtracked to Coomies Walk and headed back to the carpark much the same way as we had come. This was a good short walk with some interesting features and excellent views.

Weddin Mountains National Park: Holy Camp to Ben Halls Camping Ground

General Information

Distance: 13.85 kilometers return
Total climb: 762 meters
Time taken: 3 hours 40 minutes
Maps:  Grenfell 8530-S 1:50 000; Marsden 8430-S 1:50 000
Guide:  link
Start point distance by road from Canberra GPO:  221 kilometers
Start point map grid reference:  55H EC 92712 48676 [Grenfell]
Destination map grid reference:  55H EC 88176 47986 [Marsden]
End point:  same as start

Route

http://maps.six.nsw.gov.au/

Description

The starting point for the hike was Holy Camp on the eastern edge of the National Park. Approaching from Grenfell, I drove Holy Camp Road for 14 kilometers until it ends at Holy Camp carpark. The first 10 kilometers of Holy Camp Road is sealed, although narrow, and possibly from what I saw flood-prone. The final 4 kilometers is gravel, and after the recent rain was in a pretty bad state. I had no difficulty getting through, albeit slowly, with a Honda CRV. I commenced hiking at 11:30am, following a clearly signposted and easy-to-follow track, with the Weddin Mountain Range looming above.

The track passes through open forest for 900 meters before striking the gully of an unnamed creek, where the track is a bit more difficult to follow, particularly where it goes over rocks.

About 600 meters elevation (200 meters above and 1.4 kilometers distance from the starting point), a short side-track takes hikers to the first vantage point on the ascent, Peregrine Lookout. There are some excellent views here to the north and east.

Continuing along the track up a steep climb for another 1.2 kilometers, there is eventually another short side-track leading to Eualdrie trig. At 733 meters elevation, Eualdrie also has excellent views to the north and east (though probably more spectacular in less overcast conditions).

Returning to the main track, I headed roughly west through some scrubby and unappealing forest before striking Basin Gully at approximately 3.9 kilometers into the hike. At this point the track is often indistinct, and is best followed by looking out for round white reflectors nailed to trees and logs. Even so, I found myself pausing at several points before I could find the next reflector. The rest of the track follows Basin Gully, which becomes narrower and deeper as you descend.

At the time that I was hiking, there was plenty of water in the creek and, as the track crosses it many times, it became quite a challenge to stay dry. At some crossings I had to take a running leap to get over the creek, or look for rocks or trees step across. The wet rocks were treacherous, however, and at one point I found myself almost up to my knees in water after slipping in. In coming down the Gully there are occasional glimpses of farmland out to the west.

Only 300 meters short of Ben Halls Camping Ground I found a final wide, deep and fast-flowing creek crossing that I decided not to attempt, and started the hike back the way that I had come. Having descended to an elevation of 330 meters, it is a mildly taxing 400 meter climb over a 4 kilometre distance back to Eualdrie trig, followed by 320 meter decent over a 2.6 kilometre distance to get back to the carpark. Some feral goats were sighted in the gully below Peregrine Lookout.

The NSW National Parks rate the section from Holy Camp to Eualdrie trig as Grade 4 (Bushwalking experience recommended. Tracks may be long, rough and very steep. Directional signage may be limited.), and the section from Euraldrie trig to Ben Hall's Camping Ground as Grade 5 (Very experienced bushwalkers with specialised skills, including navigation and emergency first aid. Tracks are likely to be very rough, very steep and unmarked.). Their suggested time to do both of these sections and return is a very generous 5.5 to 7.5 hours. Although I completed the walk in 3 hours 40 minutes, I was probably quicker than I'd normally be because I was walking alone (which I never recommend!) and was on a tight deadline to get back to Cowra that afternoon. The hike was far more challenging than I had expected. Some sore muscles at the end of the day, but a lot of satisfaction too. In terms of aesthetics, some of the forest traversed is a bit unattractive, but the gullies and high vantage points (Peregrine and Euraldrie) more than compensate. It is well worth the effort if you happen to be in or passing through the area. The track is generally in good condition, even after all the rain, and its indistinctness through Basin Gully is a satisfying challenge.

An interesting postscript: Weddin Mountains National Park was closed due to "inclement and prevailing weather conditions" just two days after I completed this hike. At the time of posting it is not expected to reopen until 17 October 2016.

Namadgi National Park: Corin Dam to Pryors Hut

General Information

Distance:  16.3 kilometers
Total climb:  1,053 meters
Time taken:  4 hours 23 minutes
Map:  Corin Dam 8626-1N 1:25 000
Guide:  none available
Start point distance by road from Canberra GPO:  60 kilometers
Start point map grid reference:  55H FA 66343 66173
Destination map grid reference:  55H FA 61153 63140
End point:  same as start

Route

http://maps.six.nsw.gov.au/

Description

The first two kilometers of the track is a series of very steep climbs taking you from an elevation of 950 meters to a little over 1400 meters. This is not a track for the unfit. There are many stairs on this section of the track which make walking safer, but seem to put a lot of pressure on the legs. There are limited vantage points along the track, which is well forested. The walk begins at the carpark at Corin Dam. Follow the signs at the end of the carpark to the start of the well-defined walking track. At the end of this first section is Stockyard Spur, where the terrain flattens and I saw the first scatterings of snow.

The snow became progressively thicker as I continued the climb until the ground was covered by crisp snow to a depth of around 15 centimeters. Luckily the track was still easy to distinguish thanks to the wheel ruts, and pesky GPS/map navigation was not necessary.

Along this section of track there were occasional views towards Mount Ginini to the northwest and Mount Gingera to the southwest. At the 1532 meter peak at map reference FA641654, about 3.5 kilometers into the walk, there were some spectacular views to the southeast.

The track climbs steadily until it meets the Mount Franklin Road, by which time about 7 kilometers has been travelled and an elevation of 1635 meters has been attained. Originally I was intending to leave the road at this point and ascend Little Ginini Mountain, but given the thick snow cover obscuring anything nasty that might lie underneath it I decided that it was probably not a safe choice. Instead I followed the Mount Franklin Road, which had been cleared of snow, south for 1 kilometer to Pryors Hut.

After all of this walking I was rather disappointed to find that the dunny behind the Hut had been closed until further notice, and I had to find a tree instead. Nevertheless, I took advantage of the Hut itself to have a reasonably comfortable lunch break before heading back the way that I had come. The return hike was highly enjoyable up to the two-kilometer descent back to Corin Dam where the steep slope and relentless steps caused some niggling joint pain in the legs until I got back to level ground.

This is a very demanding track, but with lots of rewards, even if it's just the achievement of getting up to Stockyard Spur. The snow at the higher parts of the trail added considerably to the beauty of the area and did not impede the hike in any way. This may be different when the snow is deeper and the track obscured. At the top of the track, where it meets the Mount Franklin Road, there are options to climb Mount Ginini to the north or Mount Gingera to the south. Two hikers I met on the return journey were in fact climbing up to Mount Gingera to spend the night there camping in the snow.

Bullen Nature Reserve: Cotter Reserve to Bullen Hill and Pierces Creek Pine Forest

General Information

Distance:  normally 16.5 kilometers, but I walked close to 18 kilometers due to some exploring and backtracking
Total climb:  652 meters
Time taken:  4 hours
Map:  Cotter Dam 8627-2N 1:25 000
Guide:  none available
Start point distance by road from Canberra GPO:  24 kilometers
Start point map grid reference:  55H FA 76314 89207
Destination map grid reference:  55H FA 78819 85130
End point:  same as start

Route

http://maps.six.nsw.gov.au/

Description

The starting point for this hike was the Cotter Reserve carpark on the left just over the Cotter River bridge (for readers familiar with the pre-2003 bushfire Cotter Reserve, this is where the old Cotter Pub used to be). I started the hike at 8:30am. From the carpark I followed the Cotter Discovery Trail southwest around the bend in the Cotter River until the trail meets a management road. I followed this management road to the left, taking a brief side-trip to Cotter Cave (not open to the public), before eventually swinging round to the northeast to a ford over Paddys River. I looked both upstream and downstream for possible rock-hopping crossings, but none were to be found. This left the ford itself as the only possible crossing, so it was shoes off and across the shin-deep icy water. Across the ford, I followed the management trail around and up the northern extremity of the Bullen Range. This offered some reasonably good views back towards the Cotter Reserve and Cotter Dam.

From this point, the trail follows the top of the Bullen Range up and down various peaks. There are occasional views to the northeast and southwest, but the forest is usually quite dense and restricts visibility. About 5.5 kilometers into the walk the trail meets pine forest on the right, and from here it is only 1.5 kilometers to the base of Bullen Hill. When I arrived at Bullen Hill, I walked directly up a steep and treacherous track (I suspect used mainly by dirt bikers) to the summit.

I later found that had I followed the main trail around the the west of Bullen Hill, there is a much easier climb to the summit from the south. Bullen Hill at 757 meters elevation has some good views in most directions.

After pausing for a coffee on the summit, I descended back to the management trail and retraced my steps northwards. At map reference FA789857 I followed another management trail west into Pierces Creek Pine Forest. From here I followed various management trails westwards towards Paddys River, which I hoped to be able to cross. Unfortunately, the banks of the river where I struck it were fairly thick with blackberry bushes and there were no obvious shallow crossing points, so I headed south towards the ford at the Murray's Corner picnic area - another boots-off crossing of Paddys River in shin-deep freezing water. Following Paddys River Road north for just under a kilometre, I re-entered the pine forest east of Paddys River Road via the management trail at FA768853. From here it was a matter of navigating the maze of fire trails back to the Cotter Discovery Trail. As with most walks through pine forests, there was little to see other than pine trees. Near the end, however, there were some nice views above the Cotter Reserve.

The road seen in the distance in this photograph is the management trail up the northern end of Bullen Range where I started the climb.

This was a fairly easy walk, mostly along management trails, but with some steep sections and a reasonable amount of climbing (the starting point at around 480 meters elevation is less than 300 meters below the high point at Bullen Hill, but there is a lot of up-and-down track). The two barefoot river crossings were only a slight nuisance, mostly because the water was so cold. The views from the ridge are good, without being spectacular. Navigating through the pine forest requires some concentration and a decent map, and while there is not much to see in a pine forest there are some nice features along the way. Having done this section of Bullen Range, I'm considering a future walk along the full Bullen Range from Tidbinbilla Road to the Cotter Reserve (about 21 kilometers).

Tidbinbilla Nature Reserve: Mount Domain (1)

General Information

Distance:  13 kilometers
Total climb:  759 meters
Time taken:  4 hours 7 minutes
Map:  Tidbinbilla 8627-2S, 1:25 000
Guide:  none available
Start point distance by road from Canberra GPO:  50 kilometers
Start point map grid reference:  55H FA 72311 71964
Destination map grid reference:  55H FA 69661 72739
End point:  same as start

Route

http://maps.six.nsw.gov.au/

Description

This hike starts at the Fishing Gap Carpark off the Tidbinbilla Loop Road. I commenced the hike at 9:30am, signing into the Hikers Register near the gate on Fishing Gap Road. The first section of the hike follows the Fishing Gap Road for 4 kilometers until its end at Fishing Gap itself. This is a pleasant and easy walk along a wide fire trail through thick forest, gaining about 300 meters of elevation from start to end. At Fishing Gap there is a track cut through the new growth to the north which is the start of the track to Mount Domain. At first the track is relatively easy to follow by looking for saplings that have been cut down to clear the way, but eventually this gets to a clearing where the cut trail ends.

From here it is necessary to follow a trail through the scrub marked by pink ribbon tied to trees. Finding these requires paying attention and sometimes pausing to look for the next ribbon. The scrub is very dense in places, and I came out of it with numerous rips in the woollen jumper I was wearing. Some more patience on my part would probably have avoided most if not all of them.

It was about 2.5 kilometers from Fishing Gap to the summit of Mount Domain, but with difficult terrain and a 380 meter climb it took well over an hour to complete this short section. There are excellent views from the top of Mount Domain in all directions.

At just over 1500 meters elevation, and with a strong wing blowing from the west, it was very cold indeed on the summit. I returned the same way that I had come. The downhill section from Mount Domain to Fishing Gap proved to be equally difficult to navigate through, and footing in some areas was quite treacherous. I only fell flat on my butt the once, but it gave me a few bruises to remember it all. It was with some relief that I got back on to the Fishing Gap Road for an easy descent back to the carpark.

Regrowth of trees following the 2003 bushfires presents some challenges for hiking in the Tidbinbilla Range once you get off the fire trails and manicured walking trails. In many ways this hike took me back to an ascent of nearby Tidbinbilla Peak in 2015 where I had to fight through 1.5 kilometers of thick tangles of saplings as soon as I stepped off the Tidbinbilla Range Road. While this can be satisfying at the end, it takes a lot of time and energy. Nevertheless, Mount Domain was a very enjoyable hike. The more people that follow the trail up to the top, the more defined and easy it will be in the future.